By Editors of Fine Woodworking
Cupboards & counter tops, the most recent booklet within the "For execs through professionals "series, is the simplest field-tested residential development details for pro developers and remodelers and impressive owners. Articles might be chosen from "Fine Homebuilding "magazine, the country's best residential development journal. Taunton's "For professionals by way of professionals" sequence is a class chief; those are the best-built books for developers. The meant viewers for this ebook comprises execs (small scale developers, common contractors, and reworking contractors trying to find professional-level effects and useful, specialist recommendation) and impressive, skilled DIYers.
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Additional resources for Cabinets & Countertops
With a 3⁄ 8-in. -long mortise. I glued an old tape rule to a guide rail and then screwed a plastic gauge to the adjustable stop to indicate the length of a mortise. The last step was to figure out exactly where to clamp a workpiece in the fixture. I mortised a scrap in the fixture, removed the router, and marked in the fixture’s slot to show the end of the mortise nearest the fixed stop. Then I marked the fixture so that when I clamp on a workpiece, the mortise starts 3⁄ 8 in. from the end of the frame stock.
To trim the overhanging edging flush with the 3⁄4-in. plywood, I use a router with a trimming bit (see the photo on the facing page). Making several passes from right to left helps avoid splitting. The trimmer leaves Hardwood edging covers the exposed plies on the front of the case. Traditional cabinets would have a face frame, but the cases featured here are frameless. Although full-overlay doors cover the cases when closed, opening doors reveals the edges of the case, so edging is required. 44 Cabinets a slightly proud edge that I take down with a sander or a plane.
By The first step in making the cabinet face When I made the surround, I had left room for the poplar panels to expand. But 6 ft. It was too late in the game to change the surround’s design, so I made a replacement panel out of medium-density fiberboard (MDF), which is far more dimensionally stable than solid wood. Since then, the job has been problem-free. After that callback, I decided to change my production methods to develop an efficient system for making paint-grade raised-panel cabinets from MDF that are less susceptible to changes in humidity and temperature than solid wood.