By Kerry Pierce
The phobia of chairmaking is gone!
Worried that you just dont have what it takes to create gorgeous and comfy chairs? From getting the suitable perspective to ensuring the scale is simply correct and that every chair is comfortable—chairmaking could be a daunting activity for any woodworker. yet, by no means worry! writer Kerry Pierce attracts upon a long time chairmaking adventure to supply a handful of easy jigs that take the terror out of chairmaking.
This publication indicates you the way to make various types and kinds of chairs, from a ladder-back Shaker chair to a continuous-arm Windsor chair. Youll the right way to weave tape and rush seats, carve and form wood seats and lots more and plenty extra.
Read Online or Download Chairmaking Simplified: 24 Projects Using Shop-Made Jigs PDF
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Additional info for Chairmaking Simplified: 24 Projects Using Shop-Made Jigs
The button required a 1/4" fingernail gouge to cut the partial cove at the base of the nipple, while my 1/2" skew was used to cut the bead-like form at the top of the nipple. The finial is nearly finished (see photo 31). All that remains is some clean-up with the 1/4" gouge. 7. Sanding As I said before, I sand at the lathe. I would prefer not to sand because the PHOTO 29 I leave finial parts heavy until after I’ve sanded and marked the back post. Then I turn the finial parts down to their final diameters.
It can also be used to create crowned shapes, like the top of a side chair’s front post. Before you make this cut at the top of a post, you must clear out space on the turned part for your skew to perform its work. I do this by working my roughing gouge on the waste side as close to the intended position of the cut as possible. I then switch to my 1/2" skew and make a number of rough paring cuts on both sides of the final cut, the waste side as well as the post side. ) The end-grain paring cut requires a narrow skew with a fairly steep grind on either side.
Make sure you’re achieving a cutting action by placing the heel of the bevel on the spinning work and then raising the gouge’s handle in order to engage the cutting edge. Make sure that you’re not pushing the tool into the work. If you determine that your technique is solid, the cutting edge is the likely culprit, so you need to make another trip to the grinder. Please don’t get frustrated because, if you’re a novice turner, you will almost certainly need to take a few trips back and forth from the lathe to the grinder before you get a cutting edge that performs the way it should.